Hits: 0
WPCNR Main Street Journal. By John F. Bailey. April 4, 2004: Circle the date, matey, Legal Seafoods will have its charter voyage April 14, sailing from Mamaroneck Avenue at the City Center. The warm cherrywood interiors of the new Legal Seafoods vessel being outfitted at City Center, beckoned in passersby on Mamaroneck Avenue Saturday afternoon. One couple came in pleading for chowder, as training of staff was underway inside for the swank, macho-furnished, new shrine to seafood in White Plains – which when it opens will be the only seafood restaurant in the city.

DOCKING APRIL 14: The awnings and chrome and the leaping Cod on Mamaroneck Avenue, already adding life to the City Center. Photo by WPCNR News.
When Legal Seafoods opens for dinner 5 P.M. on April 14, at City Center it will become at once the best seafood restaurant in the County, with more selection, more atmosphere and better prices without the sauce-mad superficiality and limp-finned sea dishes so typical of seafood in the county.
A hostess and a corporate executive conducting training exercises yesterday told WPCNR that the shrine to seafood will open April 14 for dinner at 5 P.M, with 7-days a week, full service beginning April 15 for lunch. They will be open Monday through Thursday 11 A.M. to 10 P.M., Fridays and Saturdays, 11 to 11, and Sundays, 12 to 9.

IN THE WHEELHOUSE: White Plains Legal Seafoods will serve 230 persons at one time. It has a great cherrywood interior complete with a long bar on the left, a circular glass-enclosed “Wheelhouse,” pictured above sitting area just inside the entrance where “Captains of Development” will hold court, and is lined with steely chrome furnishes, blue and white plates on the walls, and cozy booths. Though it was quiet when WPCNR visited yesterday, you could almost hear the clash of blue plates that will be a trade mark of this place when it opens, and the aroma of butter, steamed clams, and searing choice filets. Photo by WPCNR News
I remember seafood was once a lusty, slambang experience down at Louie’s across from the Fulton Fish Market, on City Island, harborside in The Lobster House in Norwalk, or down on Sheepshead Bay in Brooklyn, or at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal.
Over the last fifty years, the fruits of the sea have been corrupted by gourmet sauces, small portions, decorative “presentation,” served on huge plates, with all sorts of wimpy dressings, capers, almonds, greens, products of the elitist nouvelle cuisine – anything but what belongs on a side of fish — anything but the taste of seafood. These enhancements simply distract the seafood enthusiast from the natural manly flavor of bluefish, striped bass, cod, lobster, scrod, swordfish and tuna.
This insidious emasculation of seafood movement began when some chef seared tuna for the first time, and tuna cooked rare, and has gradually declined to the point where the taste of real seafood has been corrupted into a shadow of its former flavor.
On April 14, fruits of the sea fans, this changes when Legal Seafoods opens up in the White Plains downtown.
Having patronized the Legal Seafoods in Boston, I can tell you that fish is on its way back. The portions in Legal Seafoods are huge slashes of filets, the atmosphere slam-dash, the décor salty, and even though you may be miles inland, you can smell the salt air and almost swear the sway of the trawler tied up at the dock just outside the restaurant. When this opens, it will be the only restaurant other than City Limits with genuine atmosphere in White Plains.
The hostess we met gave WPCNR a take-out menu which will feature take out to die for: Cioppino, Steamers, Steamed Mussels, Calamari, it has to be seen to be believed.
So watch for it, and bon voyage.